Los Angeles: Angler - Wine & Spirits Magazine

Los Angeles: Angler

John Sofio designed the lounge at the forefront of the space with Chef Chung’s open-hearth kitchen center stage in the dining room. (Photo: Jakob Layman)

Tucked into the ground floor of the Beverly Center, Angler exceeds any pre-conceived notions of dining in a shopping mall. Saison Hospitality reopened the restaurant in February 2023, adding an entrance on La Cienega and a newly designed lounge by John Sofio. Culinary Director Chef Paul Chung created the menu with Chef Brian Limoges.

For a special treat, top the seaweed rice with cured egg yolk and trout roe with caviar. (Photo: Jakob Layman)

Chef Chung’s open-hearth kitchen revolves around fire and smoke; everything is seasoned by smoke from the wood-burning oven—from the embered oysters with toasted chili butter to the roasted caramel poured over the soft-serve sundae. The menu reflects Chung’s Korean heritage in dishes like seaweed rice with cured egg yolk and trout roe. It also reflects the multi-cultural tapestry of Los Angeles—the vermillion with smoked bone vinegar and puffed rice, Chung’s take on ceviche, is a standout.

Saison Hospitality Wine Director Mark Bright and Bar Manager Yanni Pediaditis have created a playful bar menu—the Catch & Release arrives in a fish-shaped goblet sitting in a treasure chest which, when opened, releases guava vapor into the tiki-style rum cocktail. The wine list offers ample selections to support the cuisine. By-the-glass, Château Bela’s Riesling from Slovenia has the racy acidity to cut through the vermillion’s sweet and spicy bone-marrow broth. Or try a half-bottle of Latour-Giraud 2016 Clos des Chênes 1er Cru with the eggplant and smoked masala.

8500 Beverly Boulevard Suite 117, Los Angeles, CA 90048



Based in Los Angeles, California, Alissa Bica is the Spirits Editor and Critic at Wine & Spirits. She is also a Certified Sommelier and co-runs the home wine tasting company, Côte Brune and Blonde. In any rare moments of free time, she writes about obscure grape varieties in the blog Off the Beaten Wine Path.

This story appears in the print issue of Summer 2023.
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