Gjelina opened a satellite in New York City early this year, only to have it close due to a fire. Water damage will keep the place shuttered until September. Meanwhile, on the west side of LA, they’ve become grocers, roasters, bakers, florists, hoteliers and dry-goods purveyors, all of their ventures reflecting the chill vibe they’ve nurtured since 2008, and all of them engendered from the bustling, bountiful flagship restaurant on Abbot Kinney Boulevard.
Juan Hernandez’s menu still bursts at the seams with fresh, wholesome vegetable-forward California fare with an Italian accent. Henry Beylin still runs the wine program, rigorous, focused, thrillingly unique, owing in part to the fact that he self-imports many bottlings just for the restaurant group—you’ll find nothing really like this list on either coast, or in between, whether you’re considering a Slovenian sauvignon or Thiery-Weber’s cabernet sauvignon from—wait for it—Kremstal, in Austria.
Gjelina is part of our Top 30 LA List of 2023. Read the whole story here.
Patrick J. Comiskey covers US wines for Wine & Spirits magazine, focusing on the Pacific Northwest, California’s Central Coast and New York’s Finger Lakes.
This story appears in the print issue of Spring 2023.
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