After three years in dormancy, Bar Moruno has at last found its permanent home in Sunset Junction in Silver Lake, and in no time, it’s become the beating heart of that bustling crossroads. Outside, there’s a small parklet overlooking the Sunset Triangle; inside, it’s as airy and noisy as a bazaar, with Moorish details and an Iberian color palette of ochres and crimsons, framed with Portuguese-inspired tiles and mosaics. Chris Feldmeier mans the open-fire grills and rotisserie ovens for a menu that features wood-roasted meats, whole fish, half-chickens, and the bar’s namesake morunos, little kabobs of beef and vegetables. To this he’s added tapas and conserva selections, so that your visit can be as snacky or as languorous as you like. His partner is David Rosoff, one of this city’s consummate hosts, who resumes his nomadic exploration of Iberian and Mediterranean wines, pursuing his abiding love for Sherry, vermouth and Rioja, not necessarily in that order. You’d do well to linger in his list’s special section, “Islands and Volcanoes,” where he spotlights the wines of Sicily, the Canaries, the Azores and the Greek Isles.
Bar Moruno is part of our Top 30 LA List of 2023. Read the whole story here.
Patrick J. Comiskey covers US wines for Wine & Spirits magazine, focusing on the Pacific Northwest, California’s Central Coast and New York’s Finger Lakes.
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This story appears in the print issue of Spring 2023.
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