Per L’Ora’s dining room dazzles with high ceilings and Romanesque white columns. Pops of color brighten the space even as it stays true to its 1922 incarnation as the Bank of Italy’s Gianni Building—you must walk through a giant metal vault to get to the restroom. Chef Courtney Van Dyke’s menu integrates coastal Italian cuisine with those of cultures she encountered growing up as a third-generation Angeleno—the avocado toast is topped with chapulines (grasshoppers, the Mexican delicacy). Other stand-outs include the sweet-corn agnolotti and squid-ink pasta, all made in-house, and the signature spatchcocked chicken—a whole chicken brined with olive, topped with aji verde and served in a cast-iron skillet among Peewee potatoes.
The wine list skews Italian, like the Bisson 2020 Ciliegiolo from Liguria, a rosé so dark it’s almost red—a great pairing with the beef crudo. Or Mamete Prevostini’s 2016 Sassella Valtellina nebbiolo if you’re ordering the oxtail ragù orecchiette. Even the bar program features wine-inspired options like the Jubilee, a concoction of sour-cherry gin, amaretto, sparkling dry Lambrusco and hibiscus.
Per L’Ora is part of our Top 30 LA List of 2023. Read the whole story here.
This story appears in the print issue of Spring 2023.
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