Thierry Germain makes this biodynamic chenin-based sparkler from the fruit of 60-year-old vines, eschewing dosage and aging on the lees for nine months in bottle. Its cidery funk and citrus-fruit flavors make for an angular wine with mushroom savor behind it. It’s very Loire-ish in that combination of brightness and fungus with a rich and complex honeyed-fruit undercurrent. It seamlessly transitions those floral notes from cider to mushroom to fresh flowers in the finish, inviting one back for another glass—or another bottle.
Every week, our editors highlight a wine that intrigued them in our blind panel tastings, expanding on their tasting note in this space. These are entirely editorial choices; there are no paid placements. Subscribers can also access the original tasting note by searching here.
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