Leading up to our Top 100 in San Francisco, our critics are sharing some favorite wines that will be poured at the event. We’re posting a new note each day through October 10th.
Raffaele Troisi took over his family’s farm in Montefredane in 1984, and now bottles six wines from 24 acres of fiano, greco and coda di volpe vines. He vinifies everything in stainless steel without extended skin or lees contact, resulting in wines that show tremendous textural depth and crystalline purity of flavor that’s more about smoke and salinity than fruit. Of his 2014s, this fiano was a standout, pulled from a steep slope of vines averaging 30 to 35 years of age. It’s richly textured, the apple and lemon notes accented by smoke and herbal tea, yet what takes center stage is the intense salinity. The core of bright acidity promises that this will age well over the next decade—a fact that Troisi likes to emphasize by treating guests to Aipierti bottlings going back to the 1980s. W&S editor Josh Greene dubbed it “the chenin of Italy,” and its waxy, dense texture and savory flavors would make a delicious match for roast pork with mostarda.
is the Italian wine editor at Wine & Spirits magazine.
This is a W&S web exclusive. Get access to all of our feature stories by signing up today.
