This Zind-Humbrecht wine has a silken concentration and grace that make it compellingly delicious. After our panel tasting, I gave the half-empty bottle to a friend who responded back with a question: “Why, if I don’t like rich chardonnay, do I like this so much?” I could tell him it was the frost of 2017 concentrating the yields on the vines, a natural enrichment of this wine grown in the gravelly valley-floor sites Olivier Humbrecht farms in Turckheim. Or that Humbrecht’s farming—certified organic since 1998 and biodynamic since 2002—focuses the vigneron’s scientific mind and his Master of Wine perspective on an intuitive understanding of his vineyards. Or maybe it’s just that this particular mode of creaminess is built differently than the sort my friend finds in the wines he dislikes. Here, the plump white-peach sweetness is powered by the drive of the savory pinot-gris tannins. That combination lasts with a freshness I remembered a day after tasting it, making me want the bottle back.
Kobrand, Purchase, NY
Every week, our editors highlight a wine that intrigued them in our blind panel tastings, expanding on their tasting note in this space. These are entirely editorial choices; there are no paid placements. Subscribers can also access the original tasting note by searching here.
This story appears in the print issue of August 2020.
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