Champagne Countdown: Pure Chalk Beauty – Wine & Spirits Magazine

Champagne Countdown:
Pure Chalk Beauty


Valérie Varnier

As we count down to a new year, here are some Champagne picks from critic Joshua Greene’s December issue tastings to pop as the ball drops (or beforehand if you don’t feel like waiting)!

This wine is based on the 2017 harvest, the first season Valérie Varnier was working on her own, having taken charge at their Côte des Blancs estate after her husband, Denis, passed away. Her vineyards are all chardonnay, from her home base of Avize, with parcels in Oger, Cramant and Oiry. That fruit comes together in a pretty righteous wine: A pure chalk beauty with impeccable precision, it has the floral scent of freshly churned butter and the earthiness of a fresh-dug potato combining in rich elegance, a luscious wine without weight. To NYC retailer Mariko Kobayashi, it showed off “great growing, getting everything right in the vineyard.”

Imported by Skurnik Wines, NY

95

Varnier-Fannière Champagne Grand Cru Brut

Every week, our editors highlight a wine that intrigued them in our blind panel tastings, expanding on their tasting note in this space. These are entirely editorial choices; there are no paid placements. Subscribers can also access the original tasting note by searching here.

Joshua Greene is the editor and publisher of Wine & Spirits magazine.


This story appears in the print issue of December 2021.
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