Grown on steep slopes where clay and pebbles have washed down from the Pyrenees, this wine blends tannat (80 percent) with cabernet sauvignon. Alain Brumont ages it in French oak barrels, a majority of them new, creating a wine that makes no concessions to early drinking. In fact, the wine’s interest lies in its tannins as they slowly grind along the tongue like a millstone. That structure almost seems to sideline the whole-plum flavors, intensifying them in your cheeks. Two days of air bring some clarity to the fruit, but does nothing to soften those tannins, suggesting this could age for another five years or a lot longer. Pop the cork when the demi-glace starts reducing and pour your glass when you’re glazing the pasta.
93
Château Montus 2018 Madiran
$35
Every week, our editors highlight a wine that intrigued them in our blind panel tastings, expanding on their tasting note in this space. These are entirely editorial choices; there are no paid placements. Subscribers can also access the original tasting note by searching here.
Corey Warren is the Tastings Editor in addition to covering the wines of the Loire, Southern France, Argentina and South Africa.
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