The Aubry brothers work with some of Champagne’s old local varieties, including arbane, petit meslier and fromenteau, which together make up five percent of this wine. A portion of the blend is chardonnay aged in used oak barrels (35 percent), and the balance is equal parts pinot noir and meunier. Half of the wine is from the 2017 vintage; the rest is a perpetual reserve that the brothers started in 1998. The flavors focus on red currants and green pear, red apples and wildflower honey, and though it might sound idiosyncratic, it all comes together in a way that sends a buzz of herbal acidity through the generous flavors, sparking their complexities.
Skurnik Wines & Spirits, NY
Every week, our editors highlight a wine that intrigued them in our blind panel tastings, expanding on their tasting note in this space. These are entirely editorial choices; there are no paid placements. Subscribers can also access the original tasting note by searching here.
This story appears in the print issue of December 2020.
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