A Case for Barolo Specialization


Valter Fissore

Valter Fissore of Elvio Cogno focus on Novello’s Ravera cru makes a powerful case for specialization. He produces four Barolos, all from Ravera, all from the vines that surround his farmhouse, and his wines seem to get better with each vintage, regardless of the conditions. Vigna Elena is a singular wine, the only Barolo made entirely from nebbiolo rosé, once thought to be a nebbiolo clone but now shown to be a separate yet closely related variety. Much of the wine’s charm lies in its intense rose petal and red berry scents, yet it is more austere on the palate than wine from nebbiolo grapes, and Fissore always releases Vigna Elena a year later than Bricco Pernice, his other Riserva. The 2013 Vigna Elena opens with signature floral and red fruit scents along with notes of tobacco and damp leaves. Those earthier tones dissipate with air, giving way to flavors of ripe cherry and raspberry layered with notes of licorice and truffle. This is a wine that will reward patience, as those complex flavors continue to develop while the firm, mineral tannins soften.

Imported by Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, CA

97

Elvio Cogno 2013 Barolo Ravera Vigna Elena Riserva

Every week, our editors highlight a wine that intrigued them in our blind panel tastings, expanding on their tasting note in this space. These are entirely editorial choices; there are no paid placements. Subscribers can also access the original tasting note by searching here.

is the Italian wine editor at Wine & Spirits magazine.



TAGS