Tastings - Wine & Spirits Magazine


91             Cocchi     $40     2017 Alta Langa Brut Bianc'd Bianc
Aged for five years on the lees, this chardonnay sparkler developed aromas of bread crust, marzipan and truffle couched in a satiny mousse. Notes of baking spice emerge on the rich, toasty finish. Haus Alpenz, Edina, MN

91             Enrico Serafino     $33     2019 Alta Langa Oudeis Brut
Enrico Serafino began making traditional-method sparkling wines at his Roero estate in 1878, and the winery was instrumental in the creation of the Alta Langa DOC in 2002. Oudeis, a blend of pinot noir with 15 percent of chardonnay, offers an elegant balance of tangy citrus and green apple flavors in a lush, pearly texture, with a refreshing saline finish. Dalla Terra, Napa, CA

90             Enrico Serafino     $60     2017 Alta Langa Zero Riserva Pas Dosé
Zero is a pure-pinot noir sparkler that rested on the lees for 72 months. Rich and toasty, it has bracing acidity to support the flavors of red-apple skin and a hint of cider. For slow-cooked pork shoulder. Dalla Terra, Napa, CA

90             Enrico Serafino     $35     2019 Alta Langa Oudeis Rosé de Saignée Brut
This rosé has a delicate onion-skin hue and lots of earthy pinot-noir character in its red berry flavors and smoky notes of mushroom and toasted grain. Pair it with a rich mushroom risotto. Dalla Terra, Napa, CA

90             Roberto Garbarino     $55     2016 Alta Langa L'Istinto Extra Brut Rosé
Flavors of tart cherry and mandarin orange swirl in a satiny mousse, gaining hints of mushroom and refreshing salinity on the finish. Not Currently Imported

90             G.D. Vajra     $30     Vino Spumante di Qualità Rosato N.S. della Neve
This wine combines the fruitiness of pinot noir with nebbiolo's savory edge in a crisp and refreshing rosé sparkler. Light tannins frame flavors of summer strawberry and cranberry with just a hint of toasted nuts. Vajra USA, Manhasset, NY
93             Claudio Mariotto     $30     2020 Colli Tortonesi Bricco San Michele
This wine's rich texture and flinty aromatic notes may give the impression of new oak; in fact, Claudio Mariotto vinifies the wine entirely in stainless-steel tanks, employing some light bâtonnage to enhance its dense, creamy texture. The flavors are dense as well, with layers of dried pineapple and lemon drops buoyed by mandarin-orange acidity. Cool salinity brings balance to the creamy texture and freshens the finish. Artisan Wines, Norwalk, CT

92             Claudio Mariotto     $50     2019 Colli Tortonesi Derthona Cavallina
Vines planted in 2003 are the basis for this structured, muscular timorasso. Of Claudio Mariotto's three wines recommended in this issue, Cavallina is the one that bears out the variety's reputation for requiring bottle age to reach its full expression. Scents of petrol and flint lead into flavors of apricot, peach and pineapple, the fruit tones overshadowed at present by the wine's dense, almost oily texture and graphite stoniness. If you're able to stash a few bottles in the cellar, this will be fascinating to revisit over the next five years. Artisan Wines, Norwalk, CT

92             Claudio Mariotto     $28     2021 Colli Tortonesi Derthona
Timorasso wines are typically more expressive after several years of aging, but this one has loads of personality right out of the gate. It combines lush tropical notes of dried pineapple with the zippy tartness of lemon and lime in a dense, saline inflected texture—as if it were a blend of Chablis and chenin blanc. If you've never tried timorasso, this is a great place to start. And if you have, you'll want to grab a case. Artisan Wines, Norwalk, CT

91             Borgogno     $23     2020 Colli Tortonesi Derthona Scaldapulce Timorasso
This single-vineyard timorasso contrasts leesy richness with vibrant flavors of lime and kiwi, those flavors propelled by electrifying acidity. Notes of sea salt resonate on the finish. The wine's appeal will increase as the flavors integrate and the intensity level mellows with a few years of age. Ethica, Miami, FL

90             Fontanafredda     $38     2021 Colli Tortonesi Derthona Timorasso
Flavors of green apple, Asian pear and lime zest are driven by racy acidity towards a cool, saline finish. This will gain weight and richness with a little bottle age. Taub Family Selections, Boca Raton, FL

90             Le Piane     $34     2021 Vino da Tavola Bianko
Grapes grown in the Novara area of Alto Piemonte are the basis for this erbaluce. It aged in a combination of cement tanks, acacia barrels and amphoras, developing a rich, weighty texture that balances honey-drizzled flavors of Alpine fruit, quince and golden pear. Vinity Wine Co., Emeryville, CA

90             Vietti     $38     2021 Colli Tortonesi Derthona Timorasso
This wine's silty texture packs in flavors of tart lemon and lime pith that lead to a bright, saline-infused finish. Dalla Terra, Napa, CA
91             Mazzoni     2017 Ghemme ai Livelli
Tiziano Mazzoni selects grapes for this wine from a plot of nebbiolo vines planted in 1968. This 2017 retains some primary plum and dark cherry flavors while exhibiting notes of autumn leaves and damp tree bark. Its muscular tannins will benefit from a few years in the cellar. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

90             Mazzoni     2018 Ghemme dei Mazzoni
This wine's flavors of soft strawberry and orange peel show developed notes of mushroom and forest floor. It's mature nebbiolo that can be enjoyed over the next few years. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA
93             Sandrone     $60     2021 Nebbiolo d'Alba Valmaggiore
Valmaggiore's flavors of juicy strawberry and raspberry are boldly ripe, brightened by a spray of orange peel. Cool, mineral tannins and lively acidity guide the fruit flavors to a fresh and vibrant finish. Vintus, NY

91             Fratelli Alessandria     2021 Langhe Prinsiòt Nebbiolo
Here's a smooth and elegant nebbiolo you could drink every night of the week. The red-cherry and berry flavors show a crunchy tang that whets your palate for a wide range of dishes, the wine held taut by refined tannins. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

91             Ronchi     2021 Langhe Amphoris Nebbiolo
This nebbiolo's juicy red-berry flavors are amplified by aging in amphoras. Framed by taut plum-skin tannins, the wine's impressive verve and purity of fruit will appeal to ardent nebbiolo fans as well as anyone looking for a great food wine. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

90             G.D. Vajra     $24     2022 Langhe Nebbiolo
This wine's cherry and red-plum flavors are exuberantly youthful, buoyed by racy acidity and tinged with herbal accents. Give those bold flavors six months to flesh out and integrate. Vajra USA, Manhasset, NY

90             Giovanni Rosso     $32     2021 Langhe Nebbiolo
This easy-drinking nebbiolo offers flavors of soft strawberry and red cherry framed by silky tannins. A great by-the-glass choice. Vias, NY

90             Piero Busso     2020 Langhe Nebbiolo
Flavors of warmed cherry and red plum feel homey and comforting, a sensation that's enhanced by notes of soft herbs and dense fruit-skin tannins—smooth enough for pinot drinkers. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

88             Pio Cesare     $28     2021 Barbera d'Alba
Dark and savory, its sour plum flavors laced with notes of unsweetened chocolate, this is a match for roast duck with hoisin sauce. Maisons Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA
98             Fratelli Alessandria     2019 Barolo Monvigliero
Although the summer of 2019 was very warm, conditions were less extreme than in the parched 2017 or the soggy 2018 growing seasons. An absence of summer temperature spikes and favorable diurnal shifts in October led to a late harvest. That long growing season meshed beautifully with Vittore Alessandria's sure hand in the cellar, resulting in a gorgeous set of 2019 Barolos from the estate; all four are highly recommended in this issue. Monvigliero leads the way with its floral scents and flavors of tangy cherry and strawberry laced with notes of white pepper, orange peel and mortared herbs. Captivating for its freshness and nuanced aromatics, the wine has great length as well, with flavors reverberating long after each sip. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

98             Luigi Baudana     $95     2019 Barolo Cerretta
Since the Vaira family became owners of this estate in 2009, Giuseppe Vaira has taken a lighter approach in the cellar, eliminating new French oak barriques in favor of large Slavonian casks and decreasing the practice of salasso (bleeding), to bring the concentration of Cerretta into a more natural balance. The 2019 Cerretta combines power, freshness and depth of fruit to create the most impressive wine we have tasted yet from this estate. Its ample flavors of fresh, thick-skinned red cherry are edged in cool, firm tannins that keep the flavors taut as the wine gains complex spice notes and richer fruit tones over the course of several days. Vajra USA, Manhasset, NY

98             Vietti     $248     2019 Barolo Ravera
The Ravera cru in Novello, on the Barolo zone's southwestern corner, is exposed to cool winds from the Maritime Alps. A drawback years ago when the vines struggled to ripen, that is now an advantage in the age of global warming. Vietti's vineyards face directly toward the mountains and are harvested up to 15 days later than the estate's vineyards in Brunate, an interior cru shielded from the mountain winds. Vietti's 2019 Ravera is an exciting wine, bursting with aromas of rose petal, violet, tarragon and thyme. Flavors of crunchy cherry and raspberry are tangy and lively, fleshing out into deeper fruit tones layered with licorice as the wine gains energy with exposure to air. The wine was still taut and fresh after four days. Dalla Terra, Napa, CA

97             Bartolo Mascarello     $180     2019 Barolo
As staunchly traditional as ever, Maria Teresa Mascarello makes just one Barolo from small plots in four MGAs (Cannubi, San Lorenzo, Ruè and Rocche di Annunziata). She co-ferments all the fruit in old concrete tanks and ages the wine in large Slavonian casks. Her 2019 Barolo is finely textured, the dark fruit flavors flowing seamlessly over cool, chalky tannins. The flavors feel quietly restrained at first, gaining intensity over several hours as it opens with air. The finish is long and superbly balanced. Rare Wine Co., Brisbane, CA

97             Fratelli Alessandria     2019 Barolo Gramolere
This is Alessandria's sole Barolo from outside of Verduno, the fruit coming from the family's plots in Monforte d'Alba. The signature elegance of this estate is on full display in the smooth texture and refined tannins of the 2019 Gramolere. It shows more bass notes than the family's Verduno Barolos, unfolding with dark cherry and black-raspberry flavors that are tinged with notes of fired clay and hugged by dense, fine-grained tannins. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

97             G.D. Vajra     $100     2019 Barolo Ravera
This wine feels coiled at first, its dark cherry flavors encased in rigid, ferrous tannins that gradually relax as the cherry fruit turns brighter with raspberry highlights. Cool notes of thyme and bay leaf rise up as vibrant acidity surges through the flavors, intertwining with the tensile tannins to create a wine of impressive structure and freshness. Vajra USA, Manhasset, NY

97             Sandrone     $675     2017 Barolo Vite Talin
Vite Talin is the product of small, thick-skinned grapes that descend from a single vine singled out by Luciano Sandrone in 1987. The hot and dry growing season of 2017 seems to have amplified this wine's characteristic density and meaty tannins, yet it shows surprising freshness in the bright acidity that surges through savory flavors of dark chocolate and tobacco. Already complex and layered, it requires patience to allow the wine's full spectrum of flavors to emerge. Vintus, NY

97             Sandrone     $202     2019 Barolo Aleste
The low-lying, protected position of Sandrone's vines in Cannubi Boschis benefited from the moderate 2019 growing season, creating a wine with a rich texture enmeshed by tensile acidity. The velvety tannins wrap around a lush core of dark cherry flavors as the wine unfolds leisurely, gaining notes of warm spice that intensify the fruit flavors on a long, layered finish. Vintus, NY

97             Vietti     $248     2019 Barolo Cerequio
Intense aromas of crushed rose petal, fresh thyme and lavender continue into the flavors, the floral essence of the wine drawing out the tangy red cherry and berry fruit. Chewy plum-skin tannins frame that bright fruit, which gain fleshiness and depth with air. Already layered and complex, this wine will enjoy a long runway. Dalla Terra, Napa, CA

97             Vietti     $248     2019 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione
Lifted aromas of fresh rose petal and crushed red berries lead into flavors of juicy red cherry and raspberry framed by cool, supple tannins. Hints of orange peel intensify the wine's brightness, the red fruit tones remaining balanced and fresh through a lasting finish. Dalla Terra, Napa, CA

96             Fratelli Alessandria     2019 Barolo San Lorenzo di Verduno
Scents of lavender introduce this Barolo's flavors of crunchy black cherry, underlined by a cool streak of graphite. The generous fruit tones are seamlessly woven with fine spice notes, creating an overall impression of balance and gracefulness. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

96             G.D. Vajra     $100     2019 Barolo Bricco delle Viole
Notes of lavender, violet and fennel weave through flavors of dark cherry and plum in this elegant wine. The flavors feel deep and lush yet somehow weightless, the layers unfolding over velvety tannins in a long, balanced finish. Vajra USA, Manhasset, NY

96             Luigi Baudana     $65     2019 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba
Nebbiolo from three Serralunga MGAs (Cerretta, Baudana and Costabella) combines seamlessly in this fresh and elegant wine. The red fruit tones feel crisp and precise, propelled by brisk acidity and brightened by notes of spearmint and orange peel. Vajra USA, Manhasset, NY

96             Luigi Baudana     $95     2019 Barolo Baudana
This wine is harmonious and layered right out of the gate, offering a youthful energy and appeal that is surprising for a Barolo from Serralunga. There's plenty of power in the cool, polished tannins, but the wine is also packed with flavors of cherry, raspberry and blood orange that create a mouthwatering sensation of fruit picked at exactly the right moment. Notes of thyme and licorice, baked clay and rust enhance the wine's depth and complexity. Vajra USA, Manhasset, NY

96             Sandrone     $175     2019 Barolo Le Vigne
Sandrone nods to Barolo's history of blended wines with Le Vigne. Since 2011, it has included fruit from MGAs in four communes—Vignane in Barolo, Villero in Castiglione Falletto, Merli in Novello, and Baudana in Serralunga. For this 2019 bottling, the family has added fruit from a newly-acquired plot of vines in Le Coste di Monforte, at the cool, windy southern edge of Monforte d'Alba. During a July 2021 visit to this estate, I was able to do a component tasting before the wine was blended. It revealed the bright red-cherry flavors of Villero, the deep spice notes of Vignane, Baudana's austere structure, Merli's primary juiciness, and Le Coste di Monforte's vigorous freshness. Those aspects still show through in the final blend, woven together in a wine that is dark and sensual, its rich fruit layered with notes of licorice and spice in a velvety texture that cloaks the wine's impressive power and depth. Vintus, NY

96             Vietti     $248     2019 Barolo Lazzarito
Cool, mineral tannins frame flavors of intense red raspberry and cherry flavors in this tensile, buoyant wine. Tightly knit, it demands patience. Dalla Terra, Napa, CA

95             Diego Conterno     2019 Barolo Le Coste di Monforte
In an exciting debut, the 2019 Le Coste di Monforte surges from the glass with scents of menthol and orange zest, and buoyant flavors of crunchy red and black cherry. The family's vines in this southernmost MGA of Monforte d'Alba are poised at 1,200 feet a.s.l. on a south-facing slope, where cool winds preserve fresh acidity and build firm, ferrous tannins. The wine rested for 30 months in a combination of large casks and cement tanks, keeping those fruit tones pure and precise. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

95             Elvio Cogno     $116     2019 Barolo Ravera
Intense aromas of rose petal and red cherry surge from this wine, their freshness carrying into pure and crisp red-fruit tones framed by taut, mineral tannins. This wine exhibits the power and precision of Ravera, taking its time to reveal hints of menthol and white pepper highlighting the inclusion of 50 percent stems during vinification. Wilson Daniels, Napa, CA

95             Fratelli Alessandria     2019 Barolo del Comune di Verduno
This became Verduno's first comune wine in the 2017 vintage, and it continues to be one of the best in the entire comune category. Its red fruit flavors are pure and fresh, accented by notes of white pepper and soft herbs, the flavors riding on cool, polished tannins. The clarity and precision last through the long, balanced finish. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

95             G.D. Vajra     $80     2019 Barolo Coste di Rose
This wine from the sandy soils of the Coste di Rose MGA offers a high-toned, red-fruited counterpart to Vajra's darker and violet-tinged Barolo from Bricco delle Viole. Notes of tangy orange peel and fresh rose petal punctuate the wine's lively red cherry, raspberry and pomegranate flavors. With buoyant acidity and youthful vigor, it has an immediate appeal and will sustain its freshness over the next decade. Vajra USA, Manhasset, NY

95             Giulia Negri     $165     2019 Barolo Marassio
Nebbiolo for this wine comes from Negri's Marassio vineyard in Serradenari, a west-facing plot perched just above 1,750 feet a.s.l., one of the highest points in the Barolo zone. The limestone-rich soils yielded a deeply-colored wine packed with an array of cherry flavors, all bright and crunchy, those flavors propelled by dynamic acidity. Scents of fresh rose petal infuse the flavors, balanced by notes of warm spice. There's so much to unpack in this wine, and it will reveal even more over the next decade. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA

94             Diego Conterno     2018 Barolo Ginestra
Ginestra's juicy cherry and red plum flavors are infused with notes of menthol, licorice and dark spice in this wine's seamless texture. The fruit tones show impressive depth, fully ripe yet crisp and precise, the flavors taut and balanced through a long, rose-scented finish. The firm, ample tannins guarantee plenty of aging potential. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

94             Elvio Cogno     $150     2018 Barolo Ravera Bricco Pernice
Coming out of the rainy 2018 growing season, Bricco Pernice is a bit lighter-bodied than is typical for this wine. The fresh red-cherry flavors show an appealing tangy edge, framed by mature tannins as the wine gains flesh over several hours. Wilson Daniels, Napa, CA

94             Luigi Vico     2019 Barolo Prapò
The vines in Luigi Vico's east-facing Prapò plots are exposed to the gentle morning sun, giving a wine that feels fresh and generous, its flavors of mentholated cherry and strawberry tinged with hints of iron that reveal the wine's Serralunga character. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

94             Pio Cesare     $179     2019 Barolo Ornato
Notes of espresso, vanilla bean, toasted almond adorn this wine's rich red-cherry and raspberry flavors. Saline hints balance those spicy notes, which should integrate well with the generous fruit tones over the next five years. Maisons Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA

94             Prunotto     $110     2019 Barolo Bussia
This shows a light touch for a Monforte d'Alba Barolo, its translucent color matching with delicate rose petal scents and flavors of red berries woven with fresh tarragon. Its silky tannins allow all of the nuanced flavors to emerge. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, Woodinville, WA

94             Renato Ratti     $175     2019 Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata
Ripe, supple tannins wrap around flavors of succulent cherry and pomegranate in this floral-scented wine from La Morra. Those tannins gain power as the wine takes on air, the flavors remaining pure and precise as it finishes on notes of warm spice. Maze Row Wine Merchant, Healdsburg, CA

94             Vietti     $248     2019 Barolo Brunate
This Brunate is intensely floral in 2019, its saturated flavors of dark cherry and black raspberry wrapped around a core of zippy acidity as notes of orange peel and toasted almond emerge on the finish. Dalla Terra, Napa, CA

94             Vietti     $69     2019 Barolo Castiglione
Vietti's Castiglione is fresh and buoyant in the moderate 2019 vintage, its flavors of juicy red cherry and blood orange flecked with notes of licorice and tar. The tannins are ripe and round yet maintain good tension as the wine continues to gain energy and verve through the finish. Dalla Terra, Napa, CA

93             Diego Conterno     2019 Barolo del Comune di Monforte d'Alba
In the 2019 vintage, Diego Conterno and his son, Stefano, added fruit from their plots in Le Coste di Monforte, a high and windswept MGA that sits on the southern border of Monforte d'Alba. That fruit amped up the acidity and freshness in this wine, 85 percent of which comes from younger vines in the family's Ginestra plots. Full of youthful vigor, with muscular tannins and bold, dark fruit flavors, this offers a classic display of Monforte's power and longevity. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

93             Elvio Cogno     $71     2019 Barolo Cascina Nuova
The 2019 Cascina Nuova is full of verve, its exuberant red cherry and pomegranate flavors enlivened by notes of crunchy thyme and peppery spice. The firm, fully ripe tannins draw the flavors together in a taut structure that suggests this will get even better over the next several years. Wilson Daniels, Napa, CA

93             Elvio Cogno     $140     2017 Barolo Riserva Ravera Vigna Elena
In the hot and dry 2017 growing season, Vigna Elena's sandy soils yielded nebbiolo rosé grapes that show a darker and weightier profile than is typical for this wine. Initially reticent, it unfolds gradually to reveal flavors of concentrated dark cherry and licorice root accented by notes of pressed rose petals. Wilson Daniels, Napa, CA

93             Giulia Negri     $80     2019 Barolo La Tartufaia
Giulia Negri blends fruit from her high-elevation plots in the Serradenari and Brunate MGAs to make this lifted, floral-scented Barolo. Its light color is matched by delicate flavors of red cherry and raspberry, those flavors gaining intensity and weight as the wine opens in the glass. It's a classic expression of La Morra that combines power and grace. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA

93             Luigi Einaudi     $123     2019 Barolo Terlo Vigna Costa Grimaldi
Notes of tobacco and damp tree bark lend an earthy vibe to this wine's fleshy black-cherry and plum flavors. The tannins are firm and meaty, softening with air to reveal nuances of licorice and violet. Empson USA, Alexandria, VA

93             Luigi Einaudi     $130     2019 Barolo Monvigliero
Monvigliero's characteristic white-pepper notes and supple tannins are on display in this wine, accenting ripe red-cherry and raspberry-jam flavors. Empson USA, Alexandria, VA

93             Piero Benevelli     $79     2019 Barolo Mosconi
Massimo Benevelli began working in the vineyards with his father, Piero, at the age of 14. He makes this Barolo from a 1.5-acre plot that reaches up to 1,377 feet a.s.l., and the freshness of that site comes through in the wine's cool menthol notes and lively acidity. Dense, fine-grained tannins surround those flavors in a brawny embrace that calls for at least five years in the cellar. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA

93             Pio Cesare     $199     2019 Barolo Mosconi
This Barolo offers bold flavors of black cherry, baking spice and sweet tobacco wrapped in well-toned, muscular tannins. Flashy in its youth, this will gain complexity and nuance with time in the cellar. Maisons Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA

92             Borgogno     $179     2019 Barolo Liste
Andrea Farinetti says that Liste is a cooler site than those for his other single-MGA wines; the vines, perched on a southeastern facing slope next to two forests, are exposed to consistent breezes. That position contributes to the austerity of the wine's frame and the freshness of the herbal accents that weave through the wine's tangy black cherry and plum flavors. The tannins are fine and chalky, the flavors lifted by scents of dried rose petal and brushy herbs. Ethica, Miami, FL

92             Borgogno     $90     2019 Barolo
This bright and energetic wine opens on herbal scents that lead into flavors of tart cherry, cranberry and pomegranate, all edged with notes of bay leaf and Moroccan spice. The wine fleshes out over several hours, taking on deeper tones of licorice and tobacco while maintaining freshness and verve through the finish. Ethica, Miami, FL

92             Casa E. di Mirafiore     $119     2019 Barolo Paiagallo Nebbiolo
After a long, 50-day maceration, this wine rested in large Slavonian casks, developing pleasant earthy notes of damp leaves and tree bark that balance the pure red-cherry and berry flavors. The tannins are firm yet refined, the finish drawn out on warm spice notes. Ethica, Miami, FL

92             Cordero di Montezemolo     $110     2019 Barolo Enrico VI
This wine's spiced cherry and black-raspberry flavors are densely concentrated, packed with scents of fennel bulb and coffee liqueur that impart a slightly medicinal tone. Decant to pair it with Korean barbecue. Ethica, Miami, FL

92             Diego Conterno     2019 Barolo
Stefano Conterno ages this wine in a combination of large botti and cement tanks to achieve floral-scented flavors of dark cherry and plum that are pure and focused. Those flavors are sculpted by vigorous tannins as the wine takes on hints of tar and orange peel toward the finish. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

92             Fontanafredda     $115     2019 Barolo Proprietà in Fontanafredda
This feels like an old-school wine, opening on scents of rose petal that lead into flavors of ripe cherry and strawberry, the fruit wrapped around a cool core of ferrous tannins. This Barolo includes nebbiolo from the four vigne in the Fontanafredda MGA (Bianca, Gallareto, La Rosa and San Pietro); the estate will curtail production of this wine starting in 2022 to offer four single-vigne Barolos. Taub Family Selections, Boca Raton, FL

92             Giovanni Rosso     $113     2018 Barolo Serra
Limestone-rich soils from the southern end of Serralunga produced this austere and grippy Barolo, its flavors of tart cherry and blood orange underlined by a cool, chalky layer of minerality. Hints of tobacco and rose petals emerge with exposure to air, a preview of the nuances that will emerge after some time in the cellar. Vias, NY

92             Luigi Einaudi     $138     2019 Barolo Cannubi
Soft, leathery tannins surround this wine's lightly tart cherry flavors. It gains notes of licorice and tobacco leaf with exposure to air, and the fruit tones may flesh out with a few years of cellaring. Empson USA, Alexandria, VA

92             Luigi Einaudi     $62     2019 Barolo Ludo
Scents of thyme, lavender and licorice root lend an herbal freshness to this wine as mouthwatering acidity delineates its pure dark-cherry flavors. Empson USA, Alexandria, VA

92             Luigi Vico     2019 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba
This medium-bodied Barolo grows in the Meriame MGA. Its lively raspberry and cherry flavors are framed by taut plum-skin tannins that are gentle enough to make the wine enjoyable in its youth. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

92             Renato Ratti     $175     2019 Barolo Serradenari
Delicate floral scents lead into flavors of ripe red cherry and raspberry layered with notes of warm spice in this medium-bodied, elegant Barolo. Maze Row Wine Merchant, Healdsburg, CA

91             Cordero di Montezemolo     $95     2019 Barolo Gattera
This is a dense and spicy wine, its flavors of black plum layered with notes of loamy earth and dark chocolate. The wine begins to open up after a few hours in the glass, gaining a ferrous tinge on the peppery finish. Ethica, Miami, FL

91             Fontanafredda     $117     2019 Barolo Vigna la Villa Paiagallo
This wine's tangy cherry and strawberry flavors show good tension, the flavors underlined by a tarry layer and brightened by notes of rosewater and sandalwood. Taub Family Selections, Boca Raton, FL

91             Fontanafredda     $175     2019 Barolo Lazzarito Vigna la Delizia
This Barolo feels fresh and lively, its flavors of cherry and red apple skin laced with notes of menthol and tobacco leaf. Firmly tannic in a classic Serralunga style, it requires patience to coax out its nuances. Taub Family Selections, Boca Raton, FL

91             G.D. Vajra     $42     2019 Barolo Albe
An easy-drinking choice for by-the-glass programs, Albe's juicy cherry and plum flavors are round and fleshy, accented by hints of menthol and licorice. Vajra USA, Manhasset, NY

91             Renato Ratti     $85     2019 Barolo Marcenasco
Chalky tannins frame flavors of marasca cherry and blood orange in this medium-bodied, zesty Barolo that's light enough for near-term drinking. Maze Row Wine Merchant, Healdsburg, CA

91             Réva     $60     2019 Barolo
This medium-bodied Barolo opens on high-toned flavors of red cherry and pomegranate, those flavors buoyed by lively mandarin-orange acidity as the wine gains hints of dried herbs. Artisanal Cellars, White River Junction, VT

90             Borgogno     $179     2018 Barolo Liste
Notes of menthol, licorice and brushy herbs enliven this wine's dark cherry flavors, yet the tannins feel somewhat angular at present, and the fruit tones take on notes of vine-ripened tomatoes as the wine is exposed to air. This may be in an awkward phase and is worth revisiting in two or three years. Ethica, Miami, FL

90             Borgogno     $139     2019 Barolo Fossati
Flavors of black cherry and raspberry are weighty and dense, buoyed by a core of bright acidity and notes of menthol and peppery spice. Serve it a few degrees above cellar temperature to counter the warm finish. Ethica, Miami, FL

90             Casa E. di Mirafiore     $150     2019 Barolo Lazzarito
This wine's red-cherry and berry flavors feel rich and ripe, taking on notes of cassis as rigid tannins enclose the finish. Lay it down for a few years to let the tannins soften and the flavors integrate. Ethica, Miami, FL

90             Cordero di Montezemolo     $45     2019 Barolo Monfalletto
Flavors of warmed black cherry and plum gain freshness with exposure to air, picking up notes of black tea and baking spice. This is a Barolo that's ready to drink now and over the next several years. Ethica, Miami, FL

90             Marcarini     $96     2019 Barolo La Serra
Here's a supple and elegant Barolo, its light color matched by mature flavors of soft cherry and forest-floor hints. Enjoy it with pasta in a light mushroom ragù. Empson USA, Alexandria, VA

90             Pio Cesare     $90     2019 Barolo
Notes of baking spice and charred wood give way to flavors of black cherry and orange peel in this dark and smoky wine. Decant before serving with grilled game. Maisons Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA

90             Scarpa     $87     2019 Barolo Tettimorra
Dusty tannins frame flavors of tart cherry and cherry cola tinged with notes of warm spice. This is a solidly structured Barolo built for prime rib. USA Wine West, Sausalito, CA

89             Borgogno     $230     2018 Barolo Cannubi
This Cannubi's angular frame encloses flavors of warmed cherry and strawberry tinged with soft herbal notes. For near-term drinking. Ethica, Miami, FL

89             Borgogno     $269     2016 Barolo Riserva
Notes of soft green herbs brighten this wine's flavors of dark cherry and spiced red plum. It has enough freshness and primary fruit to age a few more years while those spicy notes integrate. Ethica, Miami, FL

89             Borgogno     $230     2019 Barolo Cannubi
This wine's dark cherry flavors show notes of warm spice and fresh thyme that finish a bit short, but may flesh out with a few years in the cellar. Ethica, Miami, FL

89             Boroli     $55     2019 Barolo
Thick, chewy tannins frame flavors of warmed cherry and spiced plum in this rich and fleshy Barolo. Match its warmth and spice with Szechuan beef. Winebow, NY

89             Ca'Viola     $70     2019 Barolo Sottocastello di Novello
This wine's deep color matches its flavors of black cherry, dark chocolate and steeped tea. The tannins are firm and persistent, suggesting they may outlive the fruit flavors. Banville, NY

89             Enrico Serafino     $88     2018 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba
This wine's tart cherry flavors are gripped by rigid iron tannins at present. Hints of orange peel and cigar box emerge with air, along with notes of stemmy herbs. Dalla Terra, Napa, CA

89             Fogliati     $62     2019 Barolo Treturne
Notes of menthol and warm spice enliven this wine's fleshy red-cherry and raspberry flavors. Pair it with a rich mushroom risotto. Artisanal Cellars, White River Junction, VT

89             Gianni Gagliardo     $180     2018 Barolo Lazzaritto Vigna Preve
Notes of warm spice and dark chocolate weave through this wine's tart cherry and raspberry flavors. Hints of tobacco leaf and rose petals add lift to the finish. Carolina Wine Brands USA, Charleston, SC

89             Lodali     $62     2019 Barolo Bricco Ambrogio
This medium-bodied Barolo shows flavors of soft plum and bay leaf that would match well with pork tenderloin. Empson USA, Alexandria, VA

89             Monchiero     $75     2019 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione
This bold and spicy wine offers notes of tobacco and tar framed in thick, leathery tannins. Artisan Wines, Norwalk, CT

89             Villadoria     $49     2019 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga
Flavors of warmed cherry and black raspberry are encased in rigid, ferrous tannins. Bright acidity drives the flavors as they gain notes of black tea and rose petal, but this wine is going to require patience. WinesU, Eddystone, PA

88             Borgogno     $139     2018 Barolo Fossati
Hints of soft green herbs weave through this lithe wine's flavors of tangy cherry, blood orange and pomegranate. It is showing some developed notes that suggest the wine is best enjoyed over the next few years. Ethica, Miami, FL

88             Ca'Viola     $54     2019 Barolo Caviòt
This Barolo shows some pleasant herbal and spice notes, yet its lean structure and rustic tannins need time to soften. Banville, NY

88             Fontanafredda     $57     2019 Barolo
Fontanafredda's platinum label Barolo offers flavors of fleshy red cherries and lingering spice notes, approachable in its youth. Taub Family Selections, Boca Raton, FL

88             Gianni Gagliardo     $135     2018 Barolo Mosconi
This wine's candied fruit flavors show notes of menthol and spice that are a bit assertive at present. Give it a few years for the flavors to integrate. Carolina Wine Brands USA, Charleston, SC

88             Gianni Gagliardo     $90     2018 Barolo del Comune di La Morra
Notes of dark spice accent flavors of tart cherry and soft strawberry. Serve this just above cellar temperature to temper the warm finish. Carolina Wine Brands USA, Charleston, SC

88             Monchiero     $50     2019 Barolo del Comune di La Morra
This wine's rugged tannins and sour cherry flavors call for a match with a hearty winter stew. Artisan Wines, Norwalk, CT

86             Kirkland Signature     $20     2019 Barolo
This wine's flavors of fleshy cherry and pliant tannins drink more like a Langhe Nebbiolo than a Barolo—and it's priced accordingly. Ethica, Miami, FL
96             Ronchi     2020 Barbaresco Gaia-Principe
Giancarlo Rocca's red-label Barbaresco leads a stellar set of releases from this estate—all the more impressive as this is just the second vintage of Gaia-Principe, though the first in which all the fruit comes from 30- to 40-year-old vines the Rocca family rents in that MGA. The wine stands out for its seamless texture, purity of fruit and complex undertones of tar, tobacco leaf and subtle spice. Long, lively and energetic, this is delicious today and offers excellent aging potential. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

95             Ronchi     2020 Barbaresco Ronchi
The Rocca family's winery sits right on the edge of the natural amphitheater that is the Ronchi MGA, where their vines range from 30 to 40 years of age. Giancarlo Rocca ages this wine in a mix of large botti and smaller French oak barrels that impart a velvety texture and warm spice notes to complement its high-toned red-cherry flavors and delicate floral scents. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

94             Fontanabianca     $70     2020 Barbaresco Serraboella
Flavors of ripe red cherry and raspberry are fresh and crunchy, with just enough tanginess to balance this wine's savory notes of tree bark and black tea. Warm spice notes soften the edges and draw out the finish. Ethica, Miami, FL

94             Francesco Versio     $68     2020 Barbaresco
Cool, mineral tannins frame flavors of fleshy red cherry and raspberry that feel robust and concentrated, yet, at the same time, elegant and precise. The wine offers immediate appeal in its bold fruit tones and energetic acidity, and has the freshness to age well over the next decade. Artisanal Cellars, White River Junction, VT

94             Piero Busso     2019 Barbaresco Albesani Vigna Borgese
Pierguido Busso makes this wine with nebbiolo from the estate's oldest vines, some planted in 1948. He incorporated a new de-stemming machine in the 2019 vintage that makes a stricter selection of the fruit, and that shows in this wine's fine, elegant tannins and precise red-berry flavors layered with notes of licorice and blood orange. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

94             Ronchi     2020 Barbaresco
Aged entirely in large Slavonian casks, this Barbaresco offers classic notes of floral-scented black cherry in a smooth, silky texture. The fruit tones are pure and lively, propelled by fresh acidity that draws the flavors together and enhances the wine's high-toned aromatics as the finish lingers on warm spice. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

93             Ca'Rome di Romano Marengo     $132     2019 Barbaresco Maria di Brun
This is a powerful Barbaresco, its dark cherry flavors gripped by muscular tannins. The flavors take on nuances of warm spice with exposure to air, revealing a seamless texture and richness of fruit, yet this is a wine that will benefit from at least five years of cellaring to soften those tannins. Demeine Estates, St. Helena, CA

93             Fontanabianca     $70     2020 Barbaresco Bordini
Concentrated flavors of juicy red and dark cherry weave together in a taut, seamless texture. The structure feels delicate and lacey at first, the tannins gaining power over time as the pure fruit tones are lifted by scents of fresh rose petals. Ethica, Miami, FL

93             Marchesi di Grésy     $70     2019 Barbaresco Martinenga
The 2019 Martinenga takes time to unfold, its ample spice notes eventually revealing flavors of red cherry and raspberry that feel crisp and lively, lifted by scents of bergamot and orange peel. Its refined tannins and combination of juicy cherry and bold spice hold appeal for New World pinot noir drinkers. Dalla Terra, Napa, CA

93             Piero Busso     2020 Barbaresco Mondino
Mondino's red-cherry flavors are crisp and precise, framed by cool, firm tannins that contribute to the wine's high-toned character. The flavors flow in a smooth, seamless texture, staying taut and bright through the long and balanced finish. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

93             Produttori del Barbaresco     $54     2019 Barbaresco
Produttori's Barbaresco classico feels lively and light, its tart cherry and red-plum flavors fleshing out over several hours to show impressive depth and complexity. The tannins are firm and ripe, guiding the juicy red-fruit flavors to a long and balanced finish that's freshened by a note of orange zest. Vias, NY

92             Elvio Cogno     $67     2020 Barbaresco Bordini
Aged in large Slavonian casks, this Barbaresco from Neive packs flavors of red cherry, orange oil and bay leaf into a powerfully tannic structure. The fruit tones show good freshness and purity, and will gain flesh and nuance over the next five years. Wilson Daniels, Napa, CA

92             Giuseppe Cortese     $40     2020 Barbaresco
This wine's red-cherry and strawberry flavors are crunchy and fresh, tinged with notes of rose-hip tea and warm spice. It sustains clarity and energy over several days and would work well as a premium by-the-glass pour. Winebow, NY

92             Giuseppe Nada     $59     2020 Barbaresco Marcarini
This wine's robust tannins are matched by its boldly ripe red-cherry and berry flavors and vibrant spice notes. It finishes slightly warm and is best served a few degrees above cellar temperature. David Bowler Wines, NY

92             Marchesi di Grésy     $110     2018 Barbaresco Martinenga Gaiun
Gaiun feels dark and dense in comparison to some of the lighter Barbarescos from the rainy 2018 growing season. Its black-cherry flavors are soft and pliant, accented by notes of tobacco, black tea and damp leaves. The finish is warm and spicy, ready for grilled portobello mushroom. Dalla Terra, Napa, CA

92             Marchesi di Grésy     $70     2019 Barbaresco Martinenga
Notes of charred orange peel and warm spice accent flavors of juicy red cherry and pomegranate in this medium-bodied Barbaresco. Dalla Terra, Napa, CA

92             Pertinace     $70     2020 Barbaresco Nervo
Initial flavors of ripe red cherry and berry take on notes of menthol, tree bark and singed orange peel in this pleasantly rustic, woodsy wine. For mushroom risotto. Freixenet Mionetto USA, White Plains, NY

92             Piero Busso     2019 Barbaresco San Stunet
Flavors of red cherry and berry are crisp and taut, riding on smooth, chalky tannins as the wine picks up notes of bay leaf and subtle spice. The tannins seem to gain power over time, even as the fruit tones remain lively and fresh through the finish, suggesting good aging potential. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

92             Vietti     $131     2019 Barbaresco Masseria Roncaglie
This is high-toned and intensely floral, its flavors of tangy raspberry and strawberry underlined by cool mineral tones. Polished tannins allow the fruit flavors full expression as the wine reveals scents of pink petals and subtle spices. Dalla Terra, Napa, CA

91             Fontanabianca     $50     2020 Barbaresco
Snappy fruit-skin tannins grip this wine's tangy cherry and orange-rind flavors. Cool acidity drives the finish, picking up notes of subtle spice as the red fruit tones persist. Ethica, Miami, FL

91             Lodali     $59     2020 Barbaresco Rocche dei 7 fratelli
Flavors of candied cherry and sweet spice are balanced by notes of black tea and a hint of salumi savor. Pair its rich flavors with pasta in a tomato and guanciale sauce. Empson USA, Alexandria, VA

91             Marchesi di Grésy     $140     2017 Barbaresco Martinenga Camp Gros Riserva
This Riserva feels cool and floral at the first sip, its red-cherry and raspberry flavors freshened by scents of rose petals. Firm, mineral tannins descend like a wall around the fruit after the wine has been open for several hours, bringing along an abundance of sweet spice gained during 15 months of aging in barriques. This is a Barbaresco that's built for long-term aging and demands plenty of patience. Dalla Terra, Napa, CA

91             Piero Busso     2019 Barbaresco Gallina
This is dense and muscular Barbaresco, its flavors of dark cherry and grilled porcini mushroom built for wintery stews. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

91             Pio Cesare     $144     2019 Barbaresco Il Bricco
Nebbiolo for this wine comes from three plots in the high hills of Treiso. That coolness is reflected in the wine's grippy mineral tannins, which encase dark cherry flavors that are woven with notes of anise, black pepper and tobacco. The wine takes a savory turn with exposure to air, balancing the sweet spice notes. Maisons Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA

91             Silvio Giamello     $45     2019 Barbaresco Vicenziana
This wine is rustic and savory in an appealing, old-school way, its flavors of fresh and dried cherries, hints of pressed roses and crunchy herbs all finishing on a distinctly saline note. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA

90             Giuseppe Nada     $59     2020 Barbaresco Casot
Notes of tree bark and damp leaves lend an earthy tone to this wine's red-cherry and toasted-almond flavors. It shows good depth and brightness, with angular tannins needing a few years to soften. David Bowler Wines, NY

90             Grimaldi Luigino     $46     2019 Barbaresco Manzola
This wine from Treiso shows rich dark fruit flavors laced with licorice and spice in a polished texture, the oak tannins taking over on the grippy finish. Enotec, Denver, CO

90             Pertinace     $60     2020 Barbaresco Marcarini
This feels lean and herbaceous, with notes of bergamot and black tea that begin to fill out with air, gaining flavors of warmed cherry and sweet spice tinged with a hint of blood orange. Freixenet Mionetto USA, White Plains, NY

89             Castello di Neive     $47     2020 Barbaresco
Notes of baking spice combine with flavors of warmed cherry to create a plush and homey style of Barbaresco. It's a match for slow-roasted pork shoulder. Winebow, NY

89             Fontanafredda     $62     2020 Barbaresco Coste Rubìn
Hints of caramel and sweet spice accent flavors of ripe red cherry and plum as this wine finishes on a robustly warm note. Taub Family Selections, Boca Raton, FL

88             Villadoria     $37     2020 Barbaresco
This is light on fruit, long on structure, with big, grippy tannins that encase subtle flavors of damp leaves and red berries. WinesU, Eddystone, PA

is the Italian wine editor at Wine & Spirits magazine.

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