Xochi – Wine & Spirits Magazine


photo by Julie Soefer

In a luminous space in Houston’s new Marriott Marquis, Xochi is chef Hugo Ortega’s homage to Oaxaca. Ortega, who won the 2017 James Beard Award for Best Southwest Chef, puts the wood-burning horno to good use, turning out succulent roasted meat and seafood, but it’s worth exploring the more “traditional” preparations as well: Among the seven moles Ortega puts out is one made with ants (chicatana); the appetizer queso de rancho is made with three types of insects. The wine selection is equally fascinating: beverage director Sean Beck offers 170 labels, from a debina from Greece to an old-vine, dry-farmed carignan from Chile, and showcases 20 from Mexico, including Santo Tomás Uva Blanca, made from the mission grape. Of course no Oaxacan homage would be complete without mezcal: Beck’s selection runs 28 pages.

1777 Walker St., Houston, Texas



Jamal Rayyis’s 30-year interest in the Languedoc-Roussillon stems from an encounter with Domaine de Fontsainte Gris de Gris, a pink wine from gray-skinned grapes made in Corbières. That wine, he says, inspired a pilgrimage to Narbonne, as well as his fascination with wines from underappreciated regions.

This story appears in the print issue of August 2017.
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