Among the plethora of restaurants lining Columbus Avenue on the Upper West Side, The Milling Room stands out for its well-executed food and adventurous wine list. Stop in for dinner at the spacious front bar, or venture into the dining room to sit under an arched skylight, the room warmed by rich hardwood accents. Banquettes line the walls beneath shelves stocked with books and pottery, while the tables sit far enough apart that conversations remain private. Chef Scott Bryan, formerly of Veritas, balances comfort with flourishes of style, like his roasted chicken with black trumpet mushrooms glazed with a light Madeira sauce. Enrique Duran has gathered a smart array of bottles at $70 or less, from classic bistro wines like Bourgueil from Domaine de la Butte ($45) and Taille Aux Loups Montlouis Triple Zero bubbles ($55) to verdelho from Amador County (Forlorn Hope, $49). If something grander is in order, he also keeps a reserve list of California cabernet and Barbaresco from the ’80s and ’90s.
446 Columbus Ave. (btw 81st & 82nd sts.), New York, NY
This story appears in the print issue of April 2015.
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