The fastest way to get to Paris from NYC these days is the L train to Bushwick, where Catherine Allswang and her daughter, Rachel, set up shop in a former garage. The menu, with its duck-fat-fried potatoes and moules marinière, speaks to Catherine’s years cooking in Paris; Rachel keeps to the theme with the all-French wine list, a keen selection made with sustainable farming, price and season in mind. This winter, that meant whites like Berthollier Chignin Vieilles Vignes for the leeks vinaigrette and Franck Givaudin’s Irancy for braised pork shoulder au lait. Don’t miss the silky, light crème brûlée—and order a glass of Lions de Suduiraut Sauternes for just $14.
157 Suydam St., Brooklyn, New York
This story appears in the print issue of April 2018.
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