The dining room is a scene from Amadeus with a splash of New York chic, with white stone, candlelight and steel chandeliers woven into the view of the open kitchen. The menu is classical French, as interpreted by chef Daniel Rose: Picture leeks with hazelnuts, quenelles de brochet with sauce Americaine and tout le lapin. And the list, by Charles Puglia, previously of Blue Hill at Stone Barns, is a tour de force, filled with the finest shooting stars of wine. But in among the DRC, Raveneau, Lafite and other high-priced bottles, there are many super buys, especially in Beaujolais and Alsace. Given the sheer volume of wine that flows through the dining room, the list changes often, making it a veritable treasure hunt at each visit.
138 Lafayette St., New York, NY
Sarah Sutel Looper has spent more time than most people obsessing over what makes a good all-purpose wineglass, whether it’s been when she worked in restaurants (Blue Ribbon, the Metropolitan Opera House and Mas (farmhouse)) and was W&S' Tasting Director. She is currently working harvest at Brooklyn Winery.
This story appears in the print issue of April 2018.
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