The Mosel 2020s combine fruity ebullience and filigreed acidity. The growing season started early, after a warm, wet winter led to flowering at the end of May. A warm, sunny summer encouraged ripeness in the grapes, while a cooler, wet September allowed the grapes to hold on to their acidity, lending the wines delicacy and balance, especially at the Kabinett/Feinherb end of the spectrum.
Extraordinary heat and non-stop sun defined the summer of 2019. The season required careful canopy management to avoid sunburn, and advantaged old vines with roots deep enough to find moisture. The wines tend to be on the plush side, even at the dry end of the spectrum, while the best bottlings—like Franzen’s Calmont or Van Volxem’s Bockstein GGs—are rich and muscular, with a succulence derived from the strength of their acidity.
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