What wines are up and what’s down in the nation’s top dining rooms?

Every January, we poll the top restaurants across the US about wine sales, tracking trends and compiling lists of most popular bottles. In order to put the statistics into context, we interview dozens of the sommeliers who fill out the poll. Here are excerpts from some of our conversations.

We’ll be posting interviews throughout the month, so check back for updates from some legendary spots across the country. And be on the lookout for the April issue, which will contain the full report.

Just more than two years ago Burch, now 28, landed at Nashville’s Bastion thanks to a tasting group connection. Today, as Bastion’s wine director, he’s responsible for a wine program that has to flex regularly: the 24-seat restaurant’s menu is built around a choose-your-own-adventure theme. Every night, diners choose from a bingo card style menu (no one yells bingo, we should mention) until they’ve designed a personalized five-course meal. And Burch, he has to pair it all. His solution? The Fly Blind: A set of wines curated to work with everything from raw oysters with horseradish to sweet corn with country ham.