96
Poggio di Sotto
$300
2017 Brunello di Montalcino
This is one of those wines that you feel compelled to drink, not just taste. The nose entices with scents of red cherry, vine-ripened tomato and a hint of blood orange. The texture is smooth and harmonious, with no sharp edges but plenty of verve. Subtle spice notes are perfectly integrated, energizing the vivid fruit flavors and coaxing you to take another sip. Beautifully refined and balanced, it is hard to resist now, yet will give pleasure over many years to come. Winebow, NY
95
SanCarlo
$
2016 Brunello di Montalcino
In 1968, Fulvio Marcucci bought 25 acres near Tavarnelle, in Montalcino’s southwest sector, and began planting vines. Gemma Marcucci, his granddaughter, now manages the estate’s 7.4 vineyard acres with her father, Giancarlo. Their 2016 Brunello is simply gorgeous, a wine for those who appreciate nuance and aromatics over power and density. Aromas of rose petal, thyme and orange peel infuse the flavors of fresh red cherries. The wine keeps gaining energy over several days, broadening the palette of herbal accents into oregano and lavender that impart a compelling sense of place. It is worth seeking out some of the 6,000 bottles made by this under-the-radar producer, and, while you’re at it, look for their delicious 2019 Rosso di Montalcino (also recommended here). North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA
94
Argiano
$90
2017 Brunello di Montalcino
A cool mineral tone runs through this wine like a silver streak, energizing the vivid red- and black-cherry flavors and trailing notes of licorice, tarragon and subtle black spice. Despite the warm and dry 2017 vintage, the wine’s aromatics are precise and lifted, revealing scents of rose petal and violet with exposure to air. The flavors gain energy over several days while maintaining that firm minerality that makes this wine so appealing. E. & J. Gallo, Modesto, CA
94
Caparzo
$83
2016 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casa
First produced in 1977, La Casa comes from a single vineyard on the Montosoli hill in Montalcino’s northern sector, where cooler temperatures produced a Brunello with fresh cherry flavors infused with vibrant acidity. The wine aged for one year in French oak tonneaux and two years in larger casks, gaining notes of licorice and cacao that meld with the vivid red fruit tones. So expressive already, this wine has a long runway ahead. Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL
94
Il Poggione
$100
2017 Brunello di Montalcino
Rich flavors of dark cherry and plum glide in a smooth texture, gaining notes of dark chocolate and licorice as the wine sits in the glass. The tannins are firm and compact, like new leather, yet the generous fruit tones are already expressive, supported by a cool mineral layer and vivid acidity that keep the flavors fresh over several days. This is a refined and elegant Brunello from the warm 2017 vintage, with plenty of aging potential. Terlato Wines Int'l, Lake Bluff, IL
93
Capanna
$70
2016 Brunello di Montalcino
Fresh dark cherry flavors combine with notes of licorice, mortared herbs and a hint of graphite in this balanced wine. The flavors gain earthiness with time in the glass, showing some positive development that puts it in a good place for a steakhouse list. Broadbent Selections, Richmond, VA
93
Patrizia Cencioni
$
2016 Brunello di Montalcino
This wine is cool on the attack, its fresh black-cherry flavors layered with notes of tobacco and sweet spice and underlined by dark, mineral tannins. The wine is dense yet precise, dominated by some wood notes but with vibrant cherry flavors surging through on a long, energetic finish. This will be even better with a few years of bottle age. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA
93
Cortonesi
$80
2016 Brunello di Montalcino La Mannella
Sangiovese for this wine comes from the clay and sandstone soils of La Mannella, an estate parcel in Montalcino’s northern sector. The wine is tightly wound, its sappy black-cherry flavors emerging with exposure to air and taking on dark spice notes. There’s plenty of acidity and structure here to keep the wine fresh as its tannins soften over the next several years. Quintessential, Napa, CA
93
Fuligni
$112
2017 Brunello di Montalcino
With vineyards located in Montalcino’s cooler northeastern quadrant, this estate was well positioned to withstand the heat and drought of the 2017 growing season. The wine’s red cherry and berry flavors are crunchy and bright, lifted by a hint of blood orange. The tannins are like molten iron, firmly guiding the pure fruit tones as the wine unfolds to reveal hints of smoke and warm spice. It feels a bit lean at this stage, and should flesh out with a few more years of bottle age. Empson USA, NY
93
Palazzo
$90
2016 Brunello di Montalcino
This midweight wine unfolds with flavors of macerated cherries and blackberries laced with notes of tobacco leaf and dried thyme. The wine takes on notes of licorice and subtle spice with air, the flavors buoyed by lively acidity that keeps the fruit tones fresh and taut. Montcalm Wine Importers, NY
93
San Giorgio
$60
2017 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte
The ColleMassari group took over this property in 2016, with 64 vineyard acres adjacent to the group’s Poggio di Sotto estate in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, in the southeastern sector of Montalcino. This is the first vintage that Federico Staderini and his team controlled from start to finish, aging the wine in 30-hectoliter Slavonian casks instead of the small barrels that had been used in previous years. It unfolds with flavors of black cherry and sour cherry laced with notes of licorice, blood orange and mortared herbs. Tangy acidity propels the flavors as they ride on big, smooth tannins that feel classically powerful. Winebow, NY
92
Capanna
$70
2017 Brunello di Montalcino
This wine’s cherry and raspberry flavors are vivid and focused, layered with notes of savory herbs and underbrush that balance the ripe fruit tones and lend a pleasant earthy element. Soft spices hover around the edges, enlivening the flavors and lingering on the finish. Although this should age well, the bold and balanced fruit tones offer some immediate appeal as well. Broadbent Selections, Richmond, VA
92
Caparzo
$49
2016 Brunello di Montalcino
The team at Caparzo culls sangiovese for this Brunello from estate vineyards in four different zones of Montalcino, varied in soil and elevation. Those components combine in a balanced and harmonious wine, its flavors of crunchy red cherry and black cherry layered with notes of dried herbs, underbrush and a hint of cocoa. Chewy tannins and a bright core of acidity suggest the wine will bring pleasure over the next decade. Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL
92
Castiglion del Bosco
$150
2017 Brunello di Montalcino Campo del Drago
A spot of rain in early September helped mitigate the hot and arid conditions of the 2017 growing season at this estate in the northwestern sector of Montalcino, and that restraint shows in the high-toned aromas and flavors of this single-cru wine. Scents of wild herbs and rose petals lead into flavors of red cherry and cassis, those red fruit tones taking on notes of smoke, spice and caramel with exposure to air. Maisons Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA
92
Castiglion del Bosco
$60
2017 Brunello di Montalcino
This wine is powerful and dark-toned, with weighty tannins and notes of scorched earth that underline its concentrated black cherry fruit. Bold and spicy on the finish, it will be even better in a couple of years. Maisons Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA
92
Patrizia Cencioni
$58
2017 Brunello di Montalcino
This estate’s 2017 Brunello is smokier and more savory than the vibrant 2016 (also recommended here). It opens with flavors of red cherry and cherry tomato that ride on cool, ferrous tannins. The wine gains some earth and musk with time in the glass, and the finish is brightened by a note of orange peel. It feels densely packed at present, and will benefit from several years in the cellar. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA
92
Cortonesi
$117
2016 Brunello di Montalcino Poggiarelli
This wine, from a single vineyard in southeastern Montalcino, offers a burst of fresh cherry and tangy orange-peel scents girded by a firm layer of graphite. Notes of coffee and spice emerge with air even as the wine’s well-woven acidity propels the flavors to a brisk finish. Quintessential, Napa, CA
92
Cotarella
$110
2017 Brunello di Montalcino Le Macioche
Notes of autumn leaves and forest floor lend an earthy appeal to this savory Brunello. Its dark cherry flavors are soft and rich, warmed by notes of cinnamon and anise. With its complex flavors and lingering spice notes, the wine is ready for bistecca. Trinchero Family Estates, St. Helena, CA
91
Casisano
$63
2016 Brunello di Montalcino
Scents of rose petals and cinnamon lead into flavors of ripe red cherry that are tangy and juicy, framed by moderate tannins that provide some immediate appeal. Hints of dried leaves and orange peel mingle with lingering spice notes on the finish. Vintus, NY
90
Tenuta La Fuga
$70
2016 Brunello di Montalcino
Flavors of dark cherry meld with notes of grilled herbs and scorched earth in this smoky and savory wine. Hints of peppery spice emerge toward the finish, and the wine’s savory tones would work well with barbecue. Kobrand, Purchase, NY
90
La Palazzetta
$150
2017 Brunello di Montalcino Flavio Fanti
Flavors of warmed cherry and sweet strawberry lend this wine a rich ripeness, verging on candied yet balanced by earthy tones of loamy soil and forest floor. Hints of licorice add a spicy kick to the warm and weighty finish. This may not be a wine for the long haul, but it has plenty of immediate appeal for steakhouse lists. T. Edward, NY
90
Pietroso
$88
2017 Brunello di Montalcino
Scents of violet and rose petal lead into flavors of baked cherry and strawberry in this appealing young Brunello. The dark, mineral tannins are smooth and polished, the fruit tones layered with notes of dried herbs and a bright twist of orange peel. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA