High on a hilltop about 100 miles north of Barolo, the remains of a medieval tower stand guard above the red-tiled rooftops of Gattinara. The ground continues rising northward toward the purple line of the Alps and the snowcapped Monte Rosa, Europe’s second-highest peak. The Sesia River descends past Gattinara…
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This story appears in the print issue
of December 2017.
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