

Leading up to our Top 100 in San Francisco, our critics are sharing some favorite wines that will be poured at the event. We’re posting a new note each day through October 10th.
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A native of Montreal, Quebec, where he opened a wine bar in the 1990s, Patrick Piuze moved to Burgundy in 2000, working in cellars and serving as cellar master at Jean-Marc Brocard before founding his own label in Chablis in 2008. He owns no land, instead selecting parcels of old vines, including the 55-year-old block that contributes to this Vaulorent. I have more notes on this wine than any other Chablis we tasted for this issue, noting it as reaching a completely different level, achieving the subtlety and grandeur of a grand cru (in fact, Vaulorent is on the same hill as Chablis’s grand cru Preuses). The fruit tastes of white peach, fresh apple and chamomile, those luscious flavors layered within tense oak, spice and pale limestone minerality. It’s dynamic, glorious chardonnay, with the energy to live long in the cellar.
Joshua Greene is the editor and publisher of Wine & Spirits magazine.
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