

Leading up to our Top 100 in San Francisco, our critics are sharing some favorite wines that will be poured at the event. We’re posting a new note each day through October 10th.
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Zind-Humbrecht’s 13.6-acre clos at Rangen is a steep vineyard at a high altitude, where cold air washes over the vines. Gewurztraminer is limited to a 1.2-acre block at the base of the vineyard, less exposed to winds that could impact its flowering. Proximity to the Thur River helps to moderate the climate, and the volcanic soils at the base of the slope have a slightly higher pH, which Olivier Humbrecht believes improves the performance of the 34-year-old gewurz vines. In 2013, they produced a bone-dry wine without any of the primary floral aromas the variety can give. Its tension feels like the wine was chiseled out of rock, the concentration providing a glimpse of quince and grapefruit notes and a scent of beeswax, tightly held and buzzing with energy. This is gewurztraminer as a vehicle for the site and the soil, a great wine not to be missed.
Joshua Greene is the editor and publisher of Wine & Spirits magazine.
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