

Leading up to our Top 100 in San Francisco, our critics are sharing some favorite wines that will be poured at the event. We’re posting a new note each day through October 10th.
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Yields were down 35 percent on Santorini after a windstorm swept through the island in April of 2015. The vines that did produce grapes enjoyed a long, moderate summer, without heat spikes or drought stress. At Sigalas, the concentrated fruit handled its spell in oak barrels with aplomb, growing richer in texture and more detailed in flavor. While it needs another five years in bottle to show its best, it’s already impressive in how quickly the wood tones meld with the fruit, building assyrtiko’s lemony fruit into rounder, riper notes of pear and orange peel and unearthing a wealth of chalk and spice. It’s already symphonic; just give it time in the cellar to fine-tune.
is W&S’s editor at large and covers the wines of the Mediterranean and Central and Eastern Europe for the magazine.