This is pretty awesome for a co-op wine, and remarkable for a simple villages-level Chablis. The fruit is a blend from all the villages of Chablis, selected for its delicacy (the co-op makes five different villages-level Chablis, each with a different stylistic intention). At first, this wine seemed old-fashioned and a little comical in its French ridiculousness, a sixties radical wearing patchouli, with the breath of raw limestone and Indian spice. Then, the more I went back to it, the more it made me smile, until I sort of fell in love. There’s gentleness to balance the bold spice, and a honeyed note that lends it stamina and length. Yes, it’s just a co-op Chablis, but I would be jazzed to score a case for my cellar.
Every week, our editors highlight a wine that intrigued them in our blind panel tastings, expanding on their tasting note in this space. These are entirely editorial choices; there are no paid placements. Subscribers can also access the original tasting note by searching here.
This story appears in the print issue of October 2020.
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