Zsolt Sütó farms 30 acres in Strekov, a town about 50 miles northwest of Budapest, on the Slovakian side of the border. His approach is strictly organic in the vineyards, where he grows a range of local varieties; this wine features alibernet (a cross between alicante bouschet and cabernet sauvignon) and dunaj (a cross of blauer portugieser and Sankt Laurent). He ferments “Fred” in open casks, ages it in old casks, then blends a range of vintages, making for a complex red. Bottled without any sulfur under a crown cap, it pours out of the bottle in a deep purple stream, delivering scents of violets and black pepper. It’s just as juicy as it looks, with velvety purple-plum fruit that opens toward a pleasant hint of barnyard and a meaty depth. Give it a light chill and pour it with grilled sausages. Fred, by the way, is Sütó’s condensation of “friendly, fresh, but also f*@#ing good red.”
Jenny and François Selections, NY
Every week, our editors highlight a wine that intrigued them in our blind panel tastings, expanding on their tasting note in this space. These are entirely editorial choices; there are no paid placements. Subscribers can also access the original tasting note by searching here.
This story appears in the print issue of June 2021.
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