Mavrodaphne was traditionally used for dessert wines in Greece. Evriviadis Sclavos broke with that tradition in 1996, launching his dry version. Made from old, own-rooted bush vines farmed biodynamically since that first vintage, this 2018 is soft and velvety. It smells like a red from Cephalonia’s mountains, with notes of bay laurel, wild berries, limestone, cinnamon bark and sea salt; it feels quiet, contemplative, with nothing pushed or showy about it. It’s compelling, and sustains that interest for days after opening.
DNS Wines/T. Elenteny Imports, NY
94
Sclavos 2018 Slopes of Aenos Orgion Mavrodaphne
$25
Every week, our editors highlight a wine that intrigued them in our blind panel tastings, expanding on their tasting note in this space. These are entirely editorial choices; there are no paid placements. Subscribers can also access the original tasting note by searching here.
is W&S’s editor at large and covers the wines of the Mediterranean and Central and Eastern Europe for the magazine.
This story appears in the print issue of August 2021.
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