Hannes Schuster’s father and grandfather had a small vine nursery in Zagersdorf, a town southwest of Lake Neusiedl; the microclimate there is relatively cool, as are the heavy clay soils over limestone and sand. He and Roland Velich of Moric started this project to focus on old vines in Zagersdorf, this 2011 coming from a parcel planted in 1911, as well as others planted from the 1940s through the early ’70s. They held this 2011 back, as they were excited by the quality of the fruit in that vintage, but faced with a structure and volume of tannins so great that the wine shut down at bottling. Today, its cherry-skin and Kalamata-olive depths feel heady and complete, showing development but retaining stamina to continue to age. Crystl Horton of Angel’s Share Wines would choose to enjoy it right now, with a pasta alla puttanesca.
Every week, our editors highlight a wine that intrigued them in our blind panel tastings, expanding on their tasting note in this space. These are entirely editorial choices; there are no paid placements. Subscribers can also access the original tasting note by searching here.
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