Styrian Peach Riot – Wine & Spirits Magazine

Styrian Peach Riot


The Steintal vineyard with a view of the town of Straden

Christoph Neumeister makes this wine from vines his grandfather planted in the Steintal vineyard half a century ago. It’s drop-dead gorgeous in 2018, the fragrance a riot of peach, pear, cherry, lime and green grape combined with rose, gingerroot and earthy spice. It’s so fragrant, full-bodied and profound that you could think of it as the Styrian compatriot of grand-cru Alsace gewürztraminer, with a similar hint of bitterness that’s compelling and useful in its balancing savor. The structure suggests that this will age well, yet it’s delicious now, too: Panelist Mariko Kobayashi paired her bottle with an onion tart made in the style of Lutèce’s André Soltner.

Monika Caha Selections/Frederick Wildman & Sons, NY

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Neumeister 2018 Vulkanland Steiermark Ried Steintal Roter Traminer

Every week, our editors highlight a wine that intrigued them in our blind panel tastings, expanding on their tasting note in this space. These are entirely editorial choices; there are no paid placements. Subscribers can also access the original tasting note by searching here.

is W&S’s editor at large and covers the wines of the Mediterranean, Central and Eastern Europe and Argentina for the magazine.


This story appears in the print issue of April 2021.
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