Christoph Neumeister makes this wine from vines his grandfather planted in the Steintal vineyard half a century ago. It’s drop-dead gorgeous in 2018, the fragrance a riot of peach, pear, cherry, lime and green grape combined with rose, gingerroot and earthy spice. It’s so fragrant, full-bodied and profound that you could think of it as the Styrian compatriot of grand-cru Alsace gewürztraminer, with a similar hint of bitterness that’s compelling and useful in its balancing savor. The structure suggests that this will age well, yet it’s delicious now, too: Panelist Mariko Kobayashi paired her bottle with an onion tart made in the style of Lutèce’s André Soltner.
Monika Caha Selections/Frederick Wildman & Sons, NY
Neumeister 2018 Vulkanland Steiermark Ried Steintal Roter Traminer
Every week, our editors highlight a wine that intrigued them in our blind panel tastings, expanding on their tasting note in this space. These are entirely editorial choices; there are no paid placements. Subscribers can also access the original tasting note by searching here.
is W&S’s editor at large and covers the wines of the Mediterranean and Central and Eastern Europe for the magazine.
This story appears in the print issue of April 2021.
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