Jeffrey and Ellie Patterson’s Mount Eden vineyard is a trove of heritage vines, including descendants of the chardonnay cuttings Paul Masson brought from Burgundy in the early 1900s to plant at his La Cresta Vineyard just to the south. The current generation of vines that bore the Mount Eden clone were planted in the 1990s, today yielding a small, concentrated crop that Patterson transforms into an elegant, substantial and complex chardonnay. His 2017 has shape and structure: It’s meaty and rich up front, tingling with lemon clarity and red-apple-skin freshness in the end. Wielding power without any sense of alcohol or heat, this vintage has a great future ahead.
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This story appears in the print issue of October 2020.
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