This is a knife-and-fork white, broad and meaty, with a tension to its dense savor that makes it feel powerful and alive. The flavors, on the other hand, are cool and crisp, like green pears and apples, with a stoniness that adds depth. It comes from a parcel at the lower end of the Silberbichl vineyard where Michael Malat has found that pinot blanc thrives in the calcareous alluvial soils; he vinifies it on the lees in order to play up the mineral tones while retaining crispness and energy.
Circo Vino, Tucson, AZ
Malat 2018 Kremstal Am Zaum Pinot Blanc
Every week, our editors highlight a wine that intrigued them in our blind panel tastings, expanding on their tasting note in this space. These are entirely editorial choices; there are no paid placements. Subscribers can also access the original tasting note by searching here.
is W&S’s editor at large and covers the wines of the Mediterranean and Central and Eastern Europe for the magazine.
This story appears in the print issue of April 2021.
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