If this wine is any indication, 2020 is the vintage to stock up on from Suertes del Marqués. This is an extraordinary Listán Blanco, made more compelling by its $26 price. Jonatan García Lima, who tends the ancient vines at his family’s estate, blends this wine using fruit from nearby growers in Tenerife’s Orotava Valley, a depression at the foot of the Pico del Teide created when the volcanic rock fell away, leaving a steep hillside facing mostly north into the trade winds. Those elements of the local environment combine in a wine with plenty of volcanic soil reduction, the most elegant kind of stink, here layered with yellow plum, lime and orange richness. Then the finish is bathed in minerals. Supple now, despite its reduction, this needs years to fully realize its potential.
Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY
Every week, our editors highlight a wine that intrigued them in our blind panel tastings, expanding on their tasting note in this space. These are entirely editorial choices; there are no paid placements. Subscribers can also access the original tasting note by searching here.
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