Joachim Heger, the third generation to run his family’s winery, sources this wine from vineyards he contracts in Tuniberg, a hill of limestone and loess that’s significantly cooler than his estate vineyards in the neighboring Kaiserstuhl. That coolness reads clearly in the pale color and earthy scent of this wine, more spice than fruit. Give it time to warm up—a few hours or even a day—and the flavors blossom, fragrant with roses, dark cherries, herbs and gingerbread spice. The gauzy texture fills in with a rich, pecan-like nuttiness, the wine elegant and complex.
Schatzi Wines, Milan, NY
Heger 2016 Baden Tuniberg
Every week, our editors highlight a wine that intrigued them in our blind panel tastings, expanding on their tasting note in this space. These are entirely editorial choices; there are no paid placements. Subscribers can also access the original tasting note by searching here.
is W&S’s editor at large and covers the wines of the Mediterranean and Central and Eastern Europe for the magazine.
This story appears in the print issue of April 2021.
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