This fruit comes from a single parcel east of the RN74 in Chambolle-Musigny, where Frédéric Magnien works with a grower farming 40-year-old vines in clay soils over gravel. He destems the grapes, allows a spontaneous fermentation while controlling the temperature, then ages the wine in older barrels, presenting the kind of depth and richness that could stand in for a villages wine. The flavors are bold and ripe, almost chunky in their cherry intensity, with tart raspberry and apple-like acidity to brighten the finish. Crazy-good Bourgogne rouge.
North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA
91
Frédéric Magnien 2017 Bourgogne Graviers
$25
Every week, our editors highlight a wine that intrigued them in our blind panel tastings, expanding on their tasting note in this space. These are entirely editorial choices; there are no paid placements. Subscribers can also access the original tasting note by searching here.
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This story appears in the print issue of October 2022.
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