Lecco is a selection from vines around 30 years old, when they begin to restrict their yields on their own. This crianza spends 14 months in oak barrels, 70/30 French to American (the proportion of used barrels is higher than in the wines labeled under the Resalte brand). It’s not just the older barrels and the American oak that makes the wine taste Spanish, however mysterious that description may be. But part of what’s great about this wine is how mysterious it is—to an American, at least. The winemaker, Enrique Andrades, in response to my queries, said his intention is for Lecco to be easy to understand. Also, he hopes it’s easy to drink; and, with that, I would agree: The plump fruit has evolved toward licorice, black plums, a meaty richness in the middle and a delicate, fragrant spice that lasts in the end. That fragrance brings to mind a spice rub for lamb, or the gentle richness of lechazo, the baby lamb you might eat with this in Ribera. Lecco’s savory component would also work well with rabbit paella. The wine’s vibrant energy keeps bringing thoughts of food.
Toros & Vinos, Miami, FL
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