“That’s just beautiful.” I don’t often write those words for a $20 wine, if I write them at all. While Chester Osborn may be farming 37 varieties and making many more wines, he has in no way neglected this classic. In fact, this is the best d’Arry’s Original in recent memory, though Chester’s father, d’Arry Osborn, may remember better since he created the original “Burgundy” blend in the 1960s. This is a lovely, bright, sassy wine, more about elemental sensations than any direct fruit. The grape-skin freshness of its tannins seems to reflect the cool, late vintage, delivering a sensation like the pure brisk feel of snow melt. The texture is supple, with some rocky edges, and there’s a spice to the wine, a bright fruit character shadowed by gamey notes. Simple, classic and delicious.
Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA
93
d’Arenberg 2017 McLaren Vale d’Arry’s Original Grenache Shiraz
$20
Every week, our editors highlight a wine that intrigued them in our blind panel tastings, expanding on their tasting note in this space. These are entirely editorial choices; there are no paid placements. Subscribers can also access the original tasting note by searching here.
Joshua Greene is the editor and publisher of Wine & Spirits magazine.
This story appears in the print issue of February 2021.
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