Cellar-able Ahr Pinot Noir


The Bertram family has been farming vines for more than a century in the Ahr, one of Germany’s smallest and most northerly wine regions. Julia Betram, the fifth generation, started working at a neighboring winery—the acclaimed pinot-noir house of Meyer-Näkel—right out of high school; after finishing her wine studies at Geisenheim, she returned to her home winery in 2014. She officially took over in 2017, the same year she bottled this wine. It comes from the younger vines on her 17 acres, all farmed organically. Vinified with ambient yeasts and aged for a year in barrels from Meyer-Näkel, the wine is smoky, earthy and elegant right out of the bottle, and gets only more so with a day of air. The flavors grow deeper and gamier, with a roast beef–like edge. The fine tannins feel like they’ve been whipped into the cherry fruit, giving the wine a creamy texture. Although this is Bertram’s simplest wine, it’s deserving of a place in the wine cellar, and will make a dinner of duck legs positively celebratory. NB: After marrying Benedikt Baltes (Weingut Steintal), she’s changed the name of the winery to Bertram-Baltes.

Schatzi Wines, NY

93

Julia Bertram 2017 Ahr Handwerk Spätburgunder

$28

Every week, our editors highlight a wine that intrigued them in our blind panel tastings, expanding on their tasting note in this space. These are entirely editorial choices; there are no paid placements. Subscribers can also access the original tasting note by searching here.

is W&S’s executive editor and covers the wines of the Mediterranean, Central and Eastern Europe and Argentina for the magazine.


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