“This is everything you want in a riesling,” said one panelist. He went on to point out the wine’s succulence, the combination of juicy fruit and mineral salinity, as well as the kaleidoscopic array of flavors, from peach blossoms to nectarine flesh, citrus and strawberries. But the clincher is the wine’s bell-tone clarity, the flavors rich and round yet weightless, reverberating for minutes after each sip. This comes from one of the steepest vineyards in all of Europe, which had been largely abandoned for decades until Ulrich Franzen began restoring four acres of it in 1999. Today, his son, Kilian, and daughter-in-law Angelina farm 25 acres in Bremm, half of that in the Calmont.
Every week, our editors highlight a wine that intrigued them in our blind panel tastings, expanding on their tasting note in this space. These are entirely editorial choices; there are no paid placements. Subscribers can also access the original tasting note by searching here.
This story appears in the print issue of December 2021.
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