A new year can hardly pass without another radiant offering from Lance Winters and Alameda-based St. George Spirits. Bruto Americano is an American aperitivo, bittered largely with gentian root, while California-grown Seville oranges and buckthorn bark provide orange and woodsy notes. The flavor may recall Campari (with a hint of Aperol citrus)—as does the color, a lush vermillion derived from cochineal, as Campari used to be—but the soothing texture and complexity puts it in a category of its own. BA’s gorgeous Italian futurist label shines brilliantly with a sense of novelty, as well as optimism that even crowded, old categories can be refreshed.
St. George Spirits, Alameda, CA
This story appears in the print issue of Winter 2016.
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