Matt Tornabene has run Manhattan Wine Company, a high-end wine storage facility in New Jersey, since 2006; now, with his wife, Kerri O’Brien—a former beverage director at Daniel Boulud’s DBGB—the business has a retail side, housed in the landmarked Terminal Stores Cold Storage building in West Chelsea. The store is stunning, a brick-lined space framed by thick glass and the structure’s original wooden beams, with old joists reincarnated as the tasting bar. The wine selection is equal to the space, with over 1,000 labels, the significant collections of Burgundy and Bordeaux bolstered by Tornabene’s strong connections with collectors. There are also plenty of everyday options, especially from the Loire, Beaujolais and California, displayed on two long tables punctuating the center of the room: one showcases wines under $30, the other values under $20. “We wanted to pull wines from great and emerging areas that are ageworthy,” explains Tornabene, “to show collectors that their cellars can be filled with old value buys.”
This review appears in the print edition of the June
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