Sandwiched between Pancito & Lefty, a mezcal-heavy taco joint, and Leon’s Oyster Shop, an auto body shop turned oyster-and-fried-chicken mecca with cheap beer and grower Champagne, you’ll find King Street’s newest gem, Graft. Owners Femi Oyediran and Miles White met on the team at Charleston Grill; Oyediran had clocked nearly a decade at the restaurant and became one of seven advanced sommeliers in South Carolina; meanwhile, White went off to work harvests in Oregon and Western Australia and spent a year working the floor at The Modern in NYC. At Graft, they’ve lined two walls with 220 selections of some of their favorite bottles—Bruno Duchêne Collioure, Etna Rosso from Tenuta delle Terre Nere, pinot from Becker Family in Germany’s Pfalz as well as Oregon’s Antica Terra. And if you want to stay awhile, $15 corkage will get you a comfy seat, a Gabriel-Glas for your wine and the chance to chat with the resident somms. Bonus: Oyediran is fanatical when it comes to music (check the décor and neon “It was all a dream” sign) and will bump some live albums at night.
This review appears in the print edition of the June 2018 issue. Like what you just read? Subscribe now.