Logan Square continues to stake its claim as the natural-wine heart of Chicago. Now, in addition to Webster’s Wine Bar and Red and White Wines, there’s Diversey Wine, opened by Bradford Taylor, the founder of Ordinaire, a similarly focused shop in Oakland, California. Taylor, who moved to the Windy City two years ago, approaches low-intervention wine from a benevolent point of view: “I truly believe that it’s constantly changing me and the world for the better,” he says. Ranging from the Old World to the New, the selections are rich in off-the-beaten-path quaffers priced around $20 a bottle, like Jérôme Balmet’s light, chillable Beaujolais, or Podere Il Saliceto Falistra, a sparkling rosato pét-nat from Lambrusco. Stop in for a bottle to take home, or make a night of it: The store adjoins four-year-old Cellar Door Provisions, run by Taylor’s close friend Tony Bezsylko. Recently, Cellar Door gained a liquor license, allowing Taylor to feature a few glass pours and offer any bottle from Diversey Wine at $10 above retail.
This review appears in the print edition of the October 2018 issue. our web exclusive. Like what you just read? Subscribe now.