Fried food and sparkling wine—what more do you need to know? The plates are Italian-style—think cheesy, mushroom-infused suppli, crisp artichokes and airy sweetbreads just out of a deep-fryer bath; the wine list is cherry-picked from the bubbles selection at Marta, Danny Meyer’s full-scale restaurant on the other side of the Redbury Hotel, and priced even more competitively. Order a glass of the Roger Coulon Henri Hodie ($17) while dipping crisp vegetables into bagna cauda, then debate whether to move on to Geoffroy’s Expression or Laherte Frères Beaudiers Rosé for the fried things.
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is W&S’s editor at large and covers the wines of the Mediterranean and Central and Eastern Europe for the magazine.
This story appears in the print issue of April 2018.
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