The best seats in this tiny East Village spot are at the bar, where you can talk to whoever is working the counter. It may be Patrick Cournot, who opened the place with a couple of former cooks from Tabla, where they all met. Or it may be sommelier Alexis Percival. Either of them will enthusiastically guide you through the wine list, an extensive selection that favors low-intervention bottles from around the world. The ambitious menu changes daily, the dishes detailed and complex. Keep an eye out for the fried octopus, deservedly in regular rotation, which goes particularly well with the many orange wines on offer.
125 E. 7th St., Manhattan, New York
This story appears in the print issue of April 2018.
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