Located on a block in the Humboldt Park neighborhood that is, frankly, a little sketchy, Rootstock is a small, glowing respite in a city full of more “traditional” (read: boring) wine bars. Simmering with hushed jazz, idiosyncratic wines, artisanal beers and a brilliant menu by chef Remy Ayesh, the place evokes the debauchery of the ‘20s more than the cabernet worship of the ‘90s. So even though pairing wine and cheese is old hat, this place somehow makes drinking the 2007 Leitz Eins Zwei Dry Riesling with some aged goat cheese and Earl Grey-soaked figs feel revolutionary again.
This review appears in the print edition of the December 2009 issue. Like what you just read? Subscribe now.
This story appears in the print issue of December 2009.
Like what you read? Subscribe today.