Cheryl Wakerhauser has been stockpiling Champagne at her Portland patisserie since 2001—which means that she’s got quite a lot of it. And it’s ridiculously well priced. A range of J. Lassalle’s Special Club Brut vintages all run less than $175; Benoît Lahaye’s Rosé de Macération Grand Cru Brut lists at $84 while she’s offering a magnum of Éric Rodez Cuvée des Crayères Grand Cru Brut for $190. There’s an entire page devoted to Agrapart & Fils—18 bottlings in all, from the basic 7 Crus through the Vénus. And there are plenty of rarities, like Jérôme Prévost’s La Closerie Les Béguines Extra Brut. And that’s just the Champagne. The list spans the world, with disgorgement dates provided wherever possible; there’s a deep and impressive detour into Sherry; and there are pages of sweet wines and Madeira for anyone who’s not into Champagne with their chocolate mousse.
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is W&S’s editor at large and covers the wines of the Mediterranean and Central and Eastern Europe for the magazine.
This story appears in the print issue of December 2018.
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