Named after Sydney’s most notorious female crime boss of the late 1920s, Love, Tilly Devine is a small wine bar hidden in an alley in Darlinghurst. I remember coming here when I first moved to Sydney and Matt Swieboda, the sommelier and co-owner, was pouring one of my favorite German producers by the glass: Zilliken. I think I ended up drinking a bottle on my own and he and I quickly became friends. Riesling is a big focus on the list (four pages fully dedicated to this noble grape) but it also boasts many artisanal, low-input, terroir-focused wines from Australia and the rest of the world. The by-the-glass selection is particularly good. A small selection of oysters, cheese and small plates is also available. During the most recent Tour de France, Swieboda followed the race by pouring wine by the glass from each region along its route.
This review appears in the print edition of the February 2013 issue. Like what you just read? Subscribe now.
This story appears in the print issue of February 2013.
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