A sliver of a space in Hell’s Kitchen, Kilo feels like a well-kept secret, especially when the wine list lands. How’d a 2004 Goumennissa from Tatsis, a tiny winery with a cult following in Greece, end up here? Who’d pour Koehler-Ruprecht’s pinot noir rosé by the glass in February or list Hirsch’s San Andreas Fault Pinot Noir for just $85 a bottle? LJ Hollins is who, a low-profile guy with little patience for pretension in wine or service. The friendly staff are shockingly well versed in the list, and the chef, Matt Collins, turns out terrific drinking food. Order the shiitake tacos; though they sound like hippie food, they go with nearly everything.
857 9th Ave., Manhattan, New York
This story appears in the print issue of April 2018.
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