Wally’s remains this city’s glitziest wine setting, brash and blingy, a buzzy nightlife destination that happens to serve wine. The place is vast, long, communal marble tables surrounded floor-to-ceiling with wine racks, topped off with trophy cases of first-growth Bordeaux and 50-year-old Scotches.
Chef Ryan Kluver belts out lavish versions of American classics like lobster risotto, winter duck with orange glazed farro, and wagyu in as many ways as can fit on a menu. Philip Dunn slipped away from Spago and now runs the wine program, one of the deepest in town, with bottle prices that hover about $50 over retail, meaning that as you ascend to the higher end, the deals get better and better. It’s why collectors and would-be collectors flock to the bar for by-the-glass treasures like Leflaive’s Puligny Clavoillon or Cos d’Estournel 2010, from magnum. And if you’re looking for alternatives, Dunn’s assistant Chanelle Kuhn runs a page called “Terroir Talk,” taking deep dives on Spanish whites, gems from the Jura, or Gaja’s single vineyard bottlings.
Wally’s is part of our Top 30 LA List of 2023. Read the whole story here.
This story appears in the print issue of Spring 2023.
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