Far from any restaurant neighborhood, David Chang’s Majordomo practically defines the frontier of fine dining in Los Angeles. Amidst rows of Lincoln Heights warehouses, just a stone’s throw from the LA River, you’ll find an island of string lights and brightly colored pavement cutting against the moody urban backdrop. Inside, the room is elegant, softly lit, buzzing with the kind of ravenous intent that Chang’s dishes inspire.
Jude Parra-Sickels executes a menu heavy with Chang favorites, robust, fiercely flavored, miles from precious, like spicy fusilli with pork jowl, his famous slow-roasted Bo Ssäm and his gargantuan platter of short ribs, enough to serve six. The wine program is strong and inventive, casually straddling the line between classical and edgy, where Clape’s St-Péray Marsanne and Moric’s Reserve Blaufränkisch repose alongside Hiyu Farms’s solera-style white, Tzum Atavus, or Pedro Parra’s Chilean cinsault, Hub.
Majordomo is part of our Top 30 LA List of 2023. Read the whole story here.
Patrick J. Comiskey covers US wines for Wine & Spirits magazine, focusing on the Pacific Northwest, California’s Central Coast and New York’s Finger Lakes.
Related Stories:
This story appears in the print issue of Spring 2023.
Like what you read? Subscribe today.
