Bright yellow booths and lime-green chairs add pops of color to the classic bistro feel at Horses. The location—which previously housed a Hollywood dive called Ye Coach & Horses, followed by an English pub, The Pikey—still boasts the original 1934 brown-and-white tiled floor and faux-timbered ceiling. While many of Los Angeles’s new hot spots are creating dishes that require mini-dissertations, Horses is a place for comfort food done right—think pork chop milanese with haricot verts and Cornish game hen with dandelion panzanella—the menu is the product of an unusual four-person collaboration with chefs Will Aghajanian, Liz Johnson, Brittany Ha and Lee Pallerino taking turns at the reins.
General Manager and Beverage Director Terence Leavey’s drinks program contains creative touches—like the cherry saké spritz as an aperitif—and lighter-bodied wines to complement the easy-going theme; try Santa Barbara’s Fiky Fiky merlot rosé, or Anthony Thévenet’s Morgon with the cheeseburger and fries. One last cheeky touch—the staff gives you cray-ons to doodle with on the white paper table-topper.
Horses is part of our Top 30 LA List of 2023. Read the whole story here.
Based in Los Angeles, California, Alissa Bica is the Associate Editor and Spirits Critic at Wine & Spirits. She is also a sommelier at 71 Above and co-runs the home wine tasting company, Côte Brune and Blonde. In any rare moments of free time, she writes about obscure grape varieties in the blog Off the Beaten Wine Path.
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This story appears in the print issue of Spring 2023.
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